In here I will discuss the basics of herp photography- There are a few basic things you will need to bring along.

 

First and formost- a good camera.

With so many good cameras on the market, it can be tricky to find one within your budget that meets your needs. 

For good close-ups, get a digital with at least a 6x zoom ( optical- NOT digital),and with at least 3.2 megapixels for higher quality shots. I use a Minolta Dimage Z1 with great results .

 

Here a is picture of some of the other equipment that you will need to bring along.I will describe them below from left to right......

 

 

The next pictured item is a tubing set to assist in the handling of my more aggressive subjects (again from Midwest).

 

A good hook and set of tongs come in handy for those really aggressive ones who have tendancy to have the "bite first, ask questions later" demeanor. They also assist in your positioning the snake for photographing while keeping a safe working distance between you and your subject. The hooks are also a smart choice for lifting tin,plywood,logs,and other objects where potentially venomous species may live. My preferred choice is Midwest's professional field hook.

 

Other equipment not shown that is beneficial for your safety and acuracy in the field-

A good guidebook on reptiles and amphibians for making positive identifications of your subjects. (I use the National Audubon Society Field Guide to North American Reptiles and Amphibians, and Venomous Snakes of the Southeast by Chad Mentor.)

 

In the field you will also need heavy boots and chaps or leggings for extra protection (they are also great for those pesky briars!)

 

A tripod is handy to have for steady shots-it will help increase the quality of your images and give you a different perspective of your subject.

 

With the right equipment, some good herping spots, and some creativity, you'll have the makings of a really great field herping photography experience. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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ISO-

 First thing is to choose an ISO setting which determines the image's clarity or graininess. Start off with a low ISO, this creates a smooth image. Work your way up to the highest, which gives you a rougher product. For example, if you are at a swamp on a overcast day and there's a frog or snake, a higher ISO will gather more light - causing a clearer capture of the image.

 

Choosing a File Format-

Selecting the right format for your picture will determine how much data you record. This is called resolution. Resolution is measured in pixels. There are different types of file formats- some that are uncompressed (such as TIFF), and ones that are compressed (such as JPEG). JPEG is the most reliable and common format used. It produces some of the highest quality shots out there and uses less space than TIFF.

 

Metering-

metering a background on your subject means the amount of incident light and light reflecting off your subject. On overcast days, you will need a shutter speed of 1/15 per second and a F-Stop of F/4. On the other hand, on a bright sunny day, you will need a shutter speed of 1/250- 1/400 per second and a F-Stop of F/16.

There are different settings on your camera for metering light such as spot metering, which you can use for high contrast in very bright light or dark places.

 

F-Stop-

Your F-Stop is the aperture size of the lense on your camera. It controls the amount of light you will be using. The smaller the F-Stop, the larger the aperture and the larger the F-Stop the smaller the aperture.

 

Depth of Field-

The depth of field- image area covering front to back perceived as being in sharp focus. This can be controlled by the F-Stop. Using a small F-Stop such as F/16 produces a greater depth of field. Then by using a larger F-Stop, such as F/2, will give you a smaller depth of field. Say for example, you are taking a photo of a rough green snake in the grass and want both to comeout clear- use a smaller aperture, such as F/16. If you want to zoom in on the snake, use a larger aperture.

 

Shutter Speed-

Shutter speed controls the amount of time light is being recorded. A long shutter speed gives more light and a fast shutter speed will give less light. If a frog jumps from the bank to the pond and your camera's shutter speed is set to 1/1000, you will catch him in mid-air.

 

All this may seem a bit complex, but with practice and a little experimentation, you can acheive great results. So remember, have fun with it! It's about having a good time and enjoying the wildlife around you.